Review: Hidden Gem Wines Shine at Upper Union’s Standout Winemaker’s Dinners

Upper Union Winemakers Dinners

Wine lovers, this one is for you. If you’re looking for something exciting to whet your whistle then its time to take a seat at the table at Upper Union’s series of monthly wine dinners. The fine dinning eatery is taking the concept of food and wine pairing dinners to exciting new heights by shinning the spotlight on lesser-known wineries, pairing their wares with uncomplicated, familiar dishes served in a refined way.

The series of monthly wine dinners takes place on the last Tuesday of the month, with each five-course dinner offering an incredibly special collaboration with a wine maker that is making waves in the South African wine scene. Join the selected winemaker and Upper Union for an evening of fine wines specially paired with Chef Amori’s bold, flavourful and abundant cooking.

Upper Union Winemakers Dinners

I had the pleasure of joining in for an evening with winemaker Lukas van Loggerenberg of Van Loggerenberg Wines and was delighted to discover these unfussy gems from the family-run winery based in Paarl. Lukas van Loggerenberg focuses on making low-intervention, site-specific wines, that will get any wine lover excited.

What to expect

The dinners take place in upstairs dining room of Upper Union and we were greeted with a glass of Van Loggerenberg ‘Break a Leg’ Blanc de Noir upon arrival. This easy sipper is a must for rosé lovers looking for a wine to enjoy in the summer months. It’s unpretentious, yet elegant and is a great example of an elevated blush wine. I love the subtle floral and citrus notes with just a touch of salinity on the perfectly dry finish. It’s light and easy, yet rewards with layers of flavour.

Bread course kubaneh, mebos & cream of the crop makhani butter
Bread course kubaneh, mebos & cream of the crop makhani butter.

I quickly quaffed a glass of this delightful wine and was delighted to see it make a repeat appearance with the bread course where it was paired with Kubaneh bread, mebos, and ‘cream of the crop’ makhani butter. The creamy curry-like flavours of the butter and the beautifully rich bread made the perfect pairing for the Blanc de Noir, setting the scene for a delicious night.

The first course saw Chef Amori pair Puglia Burrata served with fennel jam, dijon calatan, and sesame flat bread with Van Loggerenberg ‘Trust Your Gut’ Chenin Blanc. This elegant white wine boasts plenty of finesse and depth and was a great pairing with this creamy cheese coarse.

Bonsmara tomahawk, whole roast brown onion, winter herb salad & Jerusalem artichoke
Bonsmara tomahawk, whole roast brown onion, winter herb salad & Jerusalem artichoke.

Next up was a Pork Cutlet with black mole, oregano, and crisped crackling paired with Van Loggerenberg Geronimo Cinsaut. The fruity vibrancy of this unique wine was a great companion to the sweet pork and the rich black mole.

Mains was a real showstopper with a 35-day dry aged Bonsmara Tomahawk steak with brown garlic butter. The dish as served with various sides. This includes the Whole Roast Brown Onion with Gay’s Queen Victoria cheese, sour dough, and ‘Dalewood’ cambrini cream. Other sides include the Winter Herb Salad as well as the Jerusalem artichoke and mondial potato rosti with pickled shallot. Rounding out the flavours was a glass of Van Loggerenberg  ‘Breton’ Cabernat Franc.

Whole roast brown-onion, Gay's Queen Victoria cheese; sour dough, 'Dalewood' cambrini cream
Whole roast brown-onion, Gay’s Queen Victoria cheese; sour dough, ‘Dalewood’ cambrini cream.

For afters, we tucked into ‘Grand Padano’ Parmesan Crème brûlée with gingerbread melba toast. This moreish end to the meal was paired with the Van Loggerenberg ‘Break a leg’ Chardonnay; a delightfully unusual pairing that made both the wine and the flavours in the Crème brûlée sing.

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But that’s not all, just as we were savouring the last spoonful of Crème brûlée, a tasting plate of 4 handmade chocolates arrived at our table as a sweet send off. The candied encore offered our table a choice of Harissa Caramel in dark chocolate; Pineapple and Sage Gel with Vanilla Marshmallow in white chocolate;  Almond Coffee and Feuilletine in dark chocolate; and dark Chocolate Ganache in dark chocolate.

Grana Padano parmesan crème brulée gingerbread melba toast
Grana Padano parmesan crème brulée gingerbread melba toast.

While the dishes and wines change each time, it’s evident from my experience with the Van Loggerenberg dinner that you’re in for a real treat no matter the menu. These monthly dinners offer an opportunity for Chef Amori to flex her culinary muscles; an outstanding local winemarker to shine; and foodies to salivate at the brilliance of it all.

The nitty gritty

The Upper Union Wine Dinners start at 18:30 with the prices varying according to the wines and the menu for the evening (but most dinners are between R650 and R950 per person). Bookings can be done by calling Upper Union on 021 891 0360, emailing reservations@upperunion.co.za or via Dineplan.

The winemaker for each dinner is announced via the Upper Union Instagram page and newsletter (subscribe here for updates) about two weeks before the dinner is set to take place.

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